Ireland’s most scenic bus service? Ennis to Galway via the Cliffs of Moher

The winding, medieval streets and beautiful structure of Ennis, County Clare’s essential market city, are the southerly place to begin of route 350, a bus service that navigates sleepy villages, historic landmarks, epic landscapes and a few of the most interesting coastal surroundings in Ireland.

County Clare bus map

Ennis is simply half-hour by bus from Shannon airport and halfway by rail from Galway to Limerick City – but, in spite of all that connectivity, there are not any early begins right here, and that features the 350. The city stretches and yawns awake someday after 9am with the clanking of empty kegs to the rear of the pubs that line Abbey Street as far down as Ennis Friary. It had a literary nod as a location in James Joyce’s Ulysses, which brings a flurry of guests for its e-book pageant in early spring, however other than that, Ennis ambles alongside at its personal tempo till late May. That’s when Fleadh Nua begins – a conventional Irish music occasion, hallmarked by the sound of uilleann pipes or a bodhrán filtering by way of each bar door and window.

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The 350 bus labours uphill at the Cliffs of Moher.
The 350 bus labours uphill at the Cliffs of Moher. Photograph: Andrew Downes

The city has a scattering of breakfast cafes – corresponding to the Market Bar and Restaurant on Merchant’s Square, which serves a full Irish for beneath €10. It’s the finest means to idle away an hour ready for the bus, which can coast alongside Clare’s coast so far as Galway City. Christy, the driver in the present day, is a pleasant smiling kind – he steers the bus from the station with the confidence of huge expertise, which is a aid, as a result of this isn’t a traditional rural service – it strikes at a wise tempo alongside cliff-hugging slender lanes and thru knife-edge twists and turns.

We experience for half-hour skinny roads passing thick inexperienced pastures earlier than the bus stops in Ennistymon, exterior the easy, brightly painted Unglert’s Bakery, the place proprietor Stephan has offered contemporary bread and apple strudel for 40 years. Then Christy is again on the street to take a full 90-degree nook in the centre of Ennistymon that’s a problem even for a compact automobile – he brings the village’s site visitors to standstill for a second, earlier than crossing over a sliver of a bridge. To the proper, cascades of water tumble previous Falls Hotel, a former residence of Caitlin Macnamara, writer and spouse of Dylan Thomas.

Shops on Abbey Street, Ennis.
Shops on Abbey Street, Ennis. Photograph: Ian G Dagnall/Alamy

Just as Ennistymon recedes, the Atlantic Ocean seems on the horizon over the surf city of Lahinch. The bus swerves on to a layby – by the previous golf course which is ranked fourth finest in Ireland. Lahinch is the most well-liked seashore city in County Clare, so the bus presents the alternative to skip the parking charges and roam alongside the promenade or calm down for an hour on the golden sand, ready for the subsequent 350 to come alongside. Vaughan’s on The Prom (previously O’Looney’s) is the place to watch the browsing from a secure distance – someplace between the seashore and the Cliffs of Moher is Aileen’s Wave, a critical surf spot with gargantuan breaks. I desire the relative security of the street – and at this level it’s price mentioning that northbound passengers on the 350 ought to sit on the left-hand aspect of the bus for the finest views.

The River Inagh, with its small rapids known as the Cascades, running through the Ennistymon or Ennistimon
The River Inagh by the Falls Hotel at Ennistymon. Photograph: George Munday/Alamy

The route passes by way of Liscannor – the residence village of John P Holland, an inventor who designed the US navy’s first submarine – earlier than climbing to 200 metres above the ocean, an indication that the Cliffs of Moher are close by. This is the place most passengers disembark. The interpretive centre, with its grassy domed roof, has an uncanny resemblance to Teletubbyland, however the operation works on an exemplary sustainable mannequin, in addition to providing views alongside miles and miles of County Clare coast and over to the Aran Islands. They are breathtaking on a transparent day. If you keep on board, the bus will quickly swoop round a nook simply past the customer centre and those self same views come into panoramic focus so far as the tiny, touristy village of Doolin. There’s a daily ferry service to the Aran Islands (and energetic pubs) right here – or an opportunity to take a cruise beneath the Cliffs of Moher from the similar vantage level as Harry Potter in the Half Blood Prince.

Black Head.
Black Head. Photograph: Vic O’Sullivan

After a fast detour to Lisdoonvarna, which hosts what is alleged to be Europe’s largest matchmaking pageant each September, the bus hugs the coast on one of Ireland’s most spectacular drives, alongside Black Head. The Burren Park’s silver terrain is on both aspect – mountainous to the proper, clean and creviced to the left – earlier than it plunges into the bluest water conceivable. The setting softens at Fanore seashore, earlier than shifting on to Ballyvaughan, which tempts a pair of passengers to disembark. The village has an excellent vary of rooms and eating places overlooking Galway Bay – and O’Loclainn’s Bar has an unsurpassed choice of whiskey manufacturers stacked in its cramped inside.

Dunguaire Castle, near Kinvarra.
Dunguaire Castle, close to Kinvarra. Photograph: Stefano Valeri/Alamy

Before leaving County Clare and the Burren Park, Christy takes an surprising flip inland, passing landmarks corresponding to the break of Thirteenth-century Corcomroe Abbey and Oughtmama – a valley of crumbling medieval church buildings – then on to New Quay. The Flaggy Shore, close to New Quay, is a secluded limestone and hoary sandy seashore the place the poet Seamus Heaney hung out and which he described in his poem Postscript. To relish the chic ocean views, cease by Linnane’s Lobster Bar for contemporary catch and wine, or draft beer on faucet.

Over the border, in County Galway, the bus creates a minor calamity with site visitors because it blocks the essential road of Kinvarra to give passengers an opportunity to disembark. White sails billow in the harbour forward – and perched on a bluff on the outskirts is Dunguaire Castle. It’s a small tower home the place some of Ireland’s literary greats – Yeats, Synge and Shaw – conjured up a street map to revive and nurture the arts. It’s additionally the final cease earlier than the bus trundles on to a extra city setting because it makes for Eyre Square in Galway City – with its Michelin-star eating places, top-notch bars and bohemian life-style. But that’s an journey for an additional day.

Kinvarra.
Kinvarra. Photograph: Alamy

The bus

With a Leap Card, Bus Éireann tickets are 30% cheaper than single fares. The first of 5 day by day 350 companies begins from Ennis at 10.30am.

Stay

Doubles at The Old Ground, Ennis, from €107 (room-only) or €125 B&B; doubles at Monks, Ballyvaughan Village from €150 B&B; doubles at The Galmont, Galway, €160 room-only.

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