Can southern sushi glow up? The cheese roll debate dividing New Zealand’s deep south

It might be the cheesiest model but of the hen or the egg debate, or bushes falling in forests and in the event that they make a sound: in case you put a cheese roll on mustard, is it nonetheless a cheese roll?

It’s a query on the backside of New Zealand’s South Island, the place cheese rolls are, for some, as a lot part of identification as wine is in Bordeaux.

Ask Jude Brown, “born and bred” within the space typically referred to as the deep south, and the definition of a cheese roll is sort of particular: “Melty, cheesy, buttered morsels of rolled bread with a hint of onion, grilled in the oven.”

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That’s how Gareth Hamilton and Kate French serve “southern sushi” (as cheese rolls are recognized by many) on the Batch, a restaurant in Invercargill.

“Our customers love the traditional,” Hamilton says.

Yet cheese rolls are altering – therefore the existential questions concerning the dish.

Cheese rolls with mustard
Cheese rolls with mustard for NZ$8 on the Press Club on the Fable Dunedin. Photograph: Ben Mack

At the Press Club at Fable Dunedin, a boutique luxurious lodge within the deep south’s largest metropolis, the pinnacle chef, Darren Smith, makes use of imported dijon mustard, unfold on to the plate earlier than cheese rolls are organized on prime.

“The mustard pairs well with pickled cucumber, which adds a nice refreshing element to complement the cheese rolls,” says Smith, including they’ve been on the menu because the restaurant opened – with dangerous timing – in March 2020.

“All chefs try to leave their mark on dishes, and for us cheese rolls are no different.”

Serving southern sushi with mustard would possibly sound blasphemous to a purist, however there’s priority for evolving a meals not simply discovered outdoors the deep south.

Research from Raelene Inglis and the University of Otago emeritus professor Helen Leach, within the New Zealand Guild of Food Writers’ Pen and Palate from June 2008, discovered that cheese rolls actually took off within the Nineteen Fifties and 60s – simply as sliced bread was changing into extra widespread.

But in contrast to lots of in the present day’s iterations, the primary cheese roll recipes, which appeared in South Island cookbooks within the Thirties, didn’t characteristic pre-sliced bread purchased from a store.

Homemade cheese rolls
Homemade cheese rolls by Ben Mack. Cheese rolls may also be made at dwelling, normally in massive batches that may be frozen till it’s time to warmth and eat them. Photograph: Ben Mack

Near Dunedin in Mosgiel, the Aurora Cafe has “regular” cheese rolls and a gourmand selection that features corn relish, cream cheese, and white bread from Dunedin’s Bakehouse on Bond (previously Cottage Bakehouse, amongst different names).

“Consistency is one secret to a good cheese roll,” says the cafe’s co-owner, Alan Carey.

“Also, even though it’s being toasted, for a better quality the bread is important, hence the reason we use a local baker and will never use supermarket bread.”

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Others are taking issues even additional. In Queenstown, fine-dining restaurant Rātā was – till lately – serving cheese rolls as an entrée with hazelnuts, apricots, truffle oil, and honey.

Key phrase: was – as a result of the cafe’s proprietor, Fleur Caulton, says they’re now not on the menu. She didn’t elaborate why.

The Batch’s Kate French received’t speculate, however says her prospects sometimes like cheese rolls to be easy. “When you start putting things on it, you’re getting close to a cheese toastie.”

It’s one thing Jude Brown says, too.

“A cheese roll does not lend itself to fanciful fillings,” she says.

Cheese roll
A NZ$6 cheese roll at Dunedin airport Photograph: Ben Mack

“Otherwise, they are ‘formerly a cheese roll’ or ‘based on the perfectly good version.’”

If anyplace would do “fancy” cheese rolls, it could be Larnach Castle – a hilltop fort and main vacationer draw close to Dunedin. Cheese rolls are among the many hottest gadgets of their cafe.

“We have reverted to the tried-and-true fundraising version: grated cheese, onion, hot water – the only addition is cream cheese,” says the gross sales and advertising supervisor, Deborah Price.

“We have also moved away from the fashionable gourmet extra-large roll and gone back to the smaller traditional roll.”

The cause? “The cheese melts better and they are crunchier.”

At the Press Club, Darren Smith says diner response has been optimistic – some individuals even come particularly for the restaurant’s tackle cheese rolls.

In a head-to-head comparability, Aurora Cafe’s Carey says on some days, their gourmand cheese rolls do outsell the normal selection.

Noel Peterson and Bryan Dobson showing cheese rolls
Noel Peterson (proper) with Pak’n’Save Invercargill supervisor, Bryan Dobson, left, exhibiting off cheese rolls on the market on the grocery store. Photograph: Noel Peterson

But what’s a non-native’s view? Originally from the North Island, Noel Peterson hadn’t encountered cheese rolls earlier than shifting to the deep south city of Bluff in 2017.

He shortly realised how necessary they’re to regional identification. But he additionally thinks they might evolve – with one necessary caveat.

“The main thing about a cheese roll … is the cheese.”

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