Italy's Most Wanted Wines

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| From easy-drinking pizza wines to sublime Super Tuscans, Italian wine has it covered.

Italian winemakers must feel like they are on the crest of a wave right now – or at least some of them – but it’s no time to rest on their laurels.

The wines of Italy have probably never been as popular globally as they have been over the past five years. Wine lovers, collectors and critics have showered plaudits, love and money upon the wines that emerge from Europe’s boot.

However, there is a slight danger that all this oxygen of publicity is being sucked up by a few regions – in fact, a few wines – and a look at the list of the 10 most searched-for Italian wines will confirm that.

Search data suggests that Italy’s wines are still popular, but not quite as popular as they were a year ago. In its most important export market, the US, searches for Italian wines dropped back slightly on the previous year. Some of the heavy-hitting regions took sharp knocks: Tuscany dropped its share of total searches by 9.2 percent, while Piedmont fell by 11.2 percent. Veneto was down by 11 percent, while Sicily lost 30 percent of its share of red wine searches and 20 percent for rosé. Friuli’s white dropped 11 percent, while Veneto sparkling searches (Prosecco, essentially) lost 23 percent of its share of total searches.

So what are people looking for? Let’s take a look.

The World’s Most Wanted Italian Wines on Wine-Searcher:

The intense concentration of focus mentioned earlier is clearly illustrated by that list. Super Tuscans dominate, accounting for seven of the entries, while Piedmont gets two and Montalcino gets one. Generally, that’s the same as last time we ran this list. And the time before. In fact, the top five haven’t changed since 2018.

And that’s perhaps where Italy’s biggest challenge lies: shifting the focus beyond just Bordeaux-style wines with an Italian twist, and also looking beyond Barolo and Brunello. It’s hard, obviously, with so many wine lovers so invested in those wines, but the appearance of the Gaja Barbaresco shows it can be done – even if that still leaves us with just two main regions to choose from.

One place where Italy is storming ahead, however, is on the prices their wines are getting. Those Super Tuscans on the list have all seen their global average retail price increase by an average of 89 percent in the past 10 years, with Ornellaia the most restrained at 38 percent, while the Montevertine has enjoyed a rise of 218 percent, from $88 dollars in May 2012 to $280 at the time of writing.

And just because they aren’t Toscana IGT wines (or wines that started out that way), doesn’t mean that the wines are backward about putting their prices forward. The most restrained of them – the Gaja – managed a 35 percent rise in global average retail price, while the Conterno Barolo has jumped by a whopping 165 percent.

The question is how long will this wave roll for – and how will Italian winemakers react when it crashes into an unforgiving shore?

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